How fucking weak is this mazda msp ??
3rd time trying to change r mm and the bolds gave up on me.
Inspected them very patiently and the 2 nut's and 2 bold's are 75% stripped, one of the bolds was so fucked that as i'm taking the nut off it was pealing off the threads along the other one I couldn't get the nut off bc it had no thread left to unscrew.
Only one is working properly.

What are my option as i'll need to do something asap. ????????????
I did bold them back somehow. I test drove it and it doesn't seem to be that bad.

lmk ppl.
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um bolts?
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um bolts?

yep i need to replace them, other wise the r mm might come off/loose and drop my engine on the spot.
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no

hes saying bolts, because you keep calling the bolds. which is very humorous.
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ever heard of torque specs?
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Lefty Loosy, Righty Tighty my friend
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what size socket where you using? Did you use an impact gun or breaker bar to get it loose?
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for the nuts just go get some new ones and for the bolts there is a thread repair kit that you can buy from auto parts dealers like napa and such, bc IIRC the bolts for the rear MM is welded into the firewall, correct me if i'm wrong
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you do know that its a 17mm socket right?
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for the nuts just go get some new ones and for the bolts there is a thread repair kit that you can buy from auto parts dealers like napa and such, bc IIRC the bolts for the rear MM is welded into the firewall, correct me if i'm wrong

I do believe you are mistaken. When we did my motor swap I put the awr's in, it took a little elbow grease, and maybe a little penetrating oil.
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yeah, thats why i asked what socket he used, i have a feeling he didnt use metric....you do know that its a 17mm socket right?
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That would be my guess, or a crescent wrench
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I do believe you are mistaken. When we did my motor swap I put the awr's in, it took a little elbow grease, and maybe a little penetrating oil.

I was refering to fixing the threads on the bolt once he gets the nut off...since I believe you cannot remove the bolt from the firewall
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Are you confusing nuts and bolts?
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I was talking about the part circled in red...I think thats what he was referring to, also I rechecked the thread in the how to section and its talking nuts not bolts for that part, unless I'm misunderstanding something
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I do believe you are mistaken. When we did my motor swap I put the awr's in, it took a little elbow grease, and maybe a little penetrating oil.

weakling! lol jk Removing my factory rear mm was easy as hell once I got the retarded ass wiring harness removed from the firewall.. To me that was the hardest part. a Cheater/breaker bar will do wounders.
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LOL it was easy for me to, but i was using the right tools...unlike this dude.
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and that harness can DIE
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LOL it was easy for me to, but i was using the right tools...unlike this dude.

I think the problem here is hes trying to remove these "bolds" things and not the bolts/nuts. lol
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it may have been nuts now that I think about it.
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LOL it was easy for me to, but i was using the right tools...unlike this dude.


What did you do to removed the bottom 10mm nut... I was usign a 10mm socket and a swivel socket.
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it was easy with the motor out and me standing in the bay ;-)
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it was easy with the motor out and me standing in the bay ;-)

ah cheater!
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the bottom was still a pita, which is why I didnt even put the bottom back on when i was finished ;-)
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the bottom was still a pita, which is why I didnt even put the bottom back on when i was finished ;-)

that makes two of us.
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ok ppl

first sorry for not responding on time but been busy w/ fixing the problem

good new though as everything is fixed w/ new welded bigger better bolts + nuts.

well either i torqued the nuts too much or they were put a bit crooked and that made the threads on both nut and bolt't to give up.
I did use/had the right tools but i might overkilled w/ torque.

and no you couldn't use any quick fix type of thing, these needed to be replaced asap.

anyways this mech did a nice job, took the subframe down and hammered the bolts so they'll come loose , cutted the top part of the box where the bolts where mounted got the new ones welded ( M12 w/ 2 mm threads and grade 11~12), welded the cutted part ; every thing including the weld came out perfect.

Put everything back and now running strong on SU r mm again.
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