hey guys... i haven't been around for a few years....lol.. however today, 03/13/07; i finally bought another subie.. i bought an 02' wrx.. the individual i bought it from installed a set of JUN cams in it.. he said that is why it idles the way it does.. it idles around 800 to 1100 rpm.. and it dips pretty hard down to almost 0 on the tach.. also, it wants to stall out from time to time.. another little issue i am having is that after i drive it; and i turn it off.. .if i try to turn it back on within say 10-20 minutes after i shut it off it doesn't want to start... .. it is running stock boost.... there is NO boost controller.. it has a turbo xs bov and intercooler, the JUN cams, HKS exhaust, and invidia up pipe.. he also told me that the OEM computer has been "flashed" my "central turbo" of orlando .. can anyone give me some info on what steps i need to take to tune this beast....:D thanks everyone and anyone that helps me out..
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Find a tuner nearby with expereicne tuning Subarus, and take the car to him/her.

I'm not sure how the reflashes do with upgraded cams (i don't think they adjust for them very well), so you may need to switch to a standalong EM system such as utec, hydra, link, etc. Find a tuner nearby and tak to him/her and see what they say.
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Try cleaning and lubing the POS BOV.

TMS
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The pos, not to sound like an idiot but what is that?
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POS = piece of s$%t

blow off valves are not good for our cars, you should remove it and put the stock back on if you have it.
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just get it tuned properly
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Large cams create a rough idle for lots of reasons. One of the reasons is that they create less vacuum and have less consistent airflow at idle.

There are a few parameters in the factory ecu that can be changed to compensate for the cams.

Idle air flow has to be changed to a larger value. This will keep the RPM from dipping so far when you blip the throttle.

MAF calibration should be altered to give a more steady air flow reading for a larger voltage range. This will keep the ecu from changing fuel drastically based on the larger intake pulses.

Idle load needs to be altered because the different airflow and MAF readings will calculate a different engine load value for idle.

Timing needs to be altered around the load sites on the idle, closed and open loop timing maps. This will keep the timing from jumping to 22degrees at idle at various times. This creates a rough idle on cars with stock cams and an aftermarket MAF. This effect is further pronounced on cars with cams.

Lastly, if you are running the TXS BOV to atmosphere, you need to tighten that POS up. Those things are notorious for lifting at idle and under small vacuum changes. This results in a large dip at idle because the ecu sees the escaping air though the MAF and adds the corresponding amount of fuel.
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thank you all for the info.. my one other issue is that i am having a "hard start" ... like today for example, the car wouldn't start all day until about an hour ago.. i drove it for like almost 10 minutes and and it ran fine, i set the turbo timer at 1 minute, it shut off; and now it won't start again.. any input????:confused:
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That's odd to have cams on what seems to be a pretty mildly modified car. Stock turbo?

There is nothing wrong with a reflash. The boost controller integrated into the factory ECU is pretty smart.

It's hard to really troubleshoot that startup issue over the internet. Say, could you at least tell us if it is cranking? Does anything happen when you turn the key? You gotta give us something to go on here. Could be the starter solenoid going out, or the turbo timer could be borking things. Hard to tell over the internet.

I don't see why a reflash would have be any worse off than anything else dealing with bigger cams.
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when i turn the key it turns over, but won't start.. the fuel pump comes on and it will turn over no problem.. just doesn't want to start.. the person i purchased the car from said that after he installed the cams, the car began to do this. he says that if he would mess around with the ignition packs he could usually get it to start... ????? HELP :confused: :disco:
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edit malfunction ---- look below
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That's odd to have cams on what seems to be a pretty mildly modified car. Stock turbo?

I think he replaced the cams not b/c he wanted to upgrade but b/c of a problem that he was having with the car.....I agree on getting rid of the bov, stick with bpv. And welcome back.
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so, i took the car to a shop today.. the guy who owns the place is mainly german performance.. but he specializes in turbo vehicles... so.... there was a vacuum leak from one of the hoses connected to the wastegate.. so they fixed that , and they said the car started w/o a problem after that.. he also says that the fuel pressure regulator is running at 80psi.. it should be at 40?? does this sound like anything to anyone?
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yea that BOVsucks.. after i put it on my car idle dips really low when i first start it.. or when i barely rev.. the only way to fix it its to tighten the spring....and it helps to keep steady but somehow.. i had a check engine and after putting the bov and driving for 480 it hasnt come out.... yet... weird..
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