im in desperate need of getting rid of my super fine scratches that i put on my car when my dumbass waxed it after a 2 mile drive ( dont ask dont tell )

anyway, the scratches are not visible in the shade or in weak lighting. it has to be in direct sunlight for it to be visible. in order to see it in the shade, your eye has to be about 2 inch away from the surface, but even then .. it is barely visible. but in direct sunlight, the scratches seem to "glare" or "shine", which makes it visible from about 25 feet away

now, i am pretty sure that the LEAST aggressive approach to this would fix it. the thing is... what is the "least aggressive" method? a PC and a white pad , and what type of applicant(s)? I plan to keep my car for the next 10 years, so I don't want anything that will hurt or weaken my clearcoat/paint. and I don't want to weaken the paint to the point where I have to repeatedly wax the car because it cant protect itself anymore.

edit: i just took a look at it again, it seems that most of them are unnoticeable, the only noticeable part is on the trunk, what would happen if I just buff the trunk ? would it look uneven? lol
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you would be fine polishing the trunk only is thats only where the damage is. It sounds like you should be able to fix it real easily
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double
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so what product combo is recommended?

a $99 PC .. and just pick out any type of polisher? lol

this is how it goes correct?

1. car wash
2. dry
3. start applying the polish with the PC
4. remove the polish with a microfiber cloth
5. wax

and thats it? sounds pretty easy to me.
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so what product combo is recommended?

a $99 PC .. and just pick out any type of polisher? lol

this is how it goes correct?

1. car wash
2. dry
3. start applying the polish with the PC
4. remove the polish with a microfiber cloth
5. wax

and thats it? sounds pretty easy to me.

Yea its not to complicated..
1.wash
2.dry
3.clay bar
4.polish
5.wax

I use the PC and adams swirl and haze remover, and the revive polish with an orange pad, then white, but everyone has there own combo
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if i clay it, i'd have to rinse it off and then dry though, correct?


right now i'm going for:

PC + the polishing pad that it comes with
Sonus SFX-1 Polish(for the areas that are swirled/scratched heavier)
Sonus SFX-2 Polish(for the minor swirled/scratched areas)
Sonus Glyde lubricant + Sonus clay bar
Meguiars paste wax (doing this by hand with a microfiber)

that comes out to be roughly $140 or so, and a whole sunday. (i might leave out the SFX-2 and just use SFX-1 all around)

sound good?


detailersdomain, i'd apreciate if you would like to chime in :D
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PC and then you need a backing plate and some pads.. the pad it comes with is trash... NO GOOD...

Go with EDGE or with Lake Country.. I like the edge 2000 system but that's just me..

get a light cutting pad,polishing pad and a finishing pad.
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if i clay it, i'd have to rinse it off and then dry though, correct?


right now i'm going for:

PC + the polishing pad that it comes with
Sonus SFX-1 Polish(for the areas that are swirled/scratched heavier)
Sonus SFX-2 Polish(for the minor swirled/scratched areas)
Sonus Glyde lubricant + Sonus clay bar
Meguiars paste wax (doing this by hand with a microfiber)

that comes out to be roughly $140 or so, and a whole sunday. (i might leave out the SFX-2 and just use SFX-1 all around)

sound good?


detailersdomain, i'd apreciate if you would like to chime in :D
the problem with that is the sfx-1 is going to leave swirls in places/ hazing. A heavier polish is designed to have a lighter polish sfx-2 come after it to remove the damage or rather the marks the first one left. If your only going to use one use the sfx-2 all around.
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PC and then you need a backing plate and some pads.. the pad it comes with is trash... NO GOOD...

Go with EDGE or with Lake Country.. I like the edge 2000 system but that's just me..

get a light cutting pad,polishing pad and a finishing pad.

the standard lake country or the ccs lake country are what i recomend/ use. Ive heard good if not great things about the edge 2000 pads as well.
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go to autozone and get some scratch X made by meguirers. Its the best!!
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go to autozone and get some scratch X made by meguirers. Its the best!!

yeah if you like wasting alot of effort when an actual random orbita.l buffer will do a much better job. And youll still have an arm afterwards.
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i was thinking about the scratch-X too, I could use the scratch-x product with an orbital buffer, right? I don't see why that wouldn't be possible

but anyway, i just figured out that my brother had bought a random orbital buffer too, and he gave me one, (pepboys accidently gave him one box that had two buffers inside at the price of only one), so yeah.... time to experiment.. on my wing first ;)

can the lake country pads be found at the local kragen/autozone or pepboys? and what type of pads do you guys recommend? (i believe it goes by colors)


Zspectrum, wouldn't that mean that I'd have to use the sfx-3 after the sfx-2 ?
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take some 3m black ice 2500 wet sand. and 3m black squeegee(for backing, you want even sanding) and wet sand all the areas effected. then take the sqeegee and wipe it off to check your work, it wont take much to get rid of this. then take some meguiars medium compound and (wool pad)buff(i would get a buffer that goes to atleast 4k rpms( not the ****ty ones from pep boys with the two handles, a makita or milwakee) buff it out at 2.5k rpms and keep it movn and stay away from edges, dont hang out in one spot with the buffer. then after your done use meguiars swirl free polish with a foam pad. then use some hand glaze..then wax it. i would do that to the hole car , paints gonna look like new then. the money you spend is well worth it. because you will have the product if you need to do it again, and plus you learn how to buff wich is of good value, plus u can do it for freinds and make money.

Dan
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the buffer from pepboys actualy goes to 4000 rpm's.
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